Ahhh, Limestone

It dawned on me a few weeks ago that it had been well over a year since I had laid my hands on any limestone. Having started climbing in central Texas, where limestone abounds, I have always had a soft spot in my heart (and calluses on my fingers) for calcium-based rocks. Having just watched the Reel Rock flicks with footage of incredible Spanish limestone, I was jonesing for some limestone. Fortunately the stars aligned, and I was able to head out to Dry Canyon with some friends to sample the finest limestone in Southern Arizona.

We spent our day in the Spine Cave, home of some fantastic climbing, including the classics Spinal Twist and Loose Stools (both listed in John Baker's list of "Best Low 12's in Southern Arizona"). Christian and Dan worked the right side of the cave, while Ian and I worked on the left side. We started with some really nice - but difficult - 11's. The limestone here is actually pretty easy on the hands, with no sharp pockets or crimps. The rock is very features, with smooth and slopey ledges and nice incuts, facilitating great movement on both the vertical and steep sections of wall.

Dan on Loose Stools (12a, but not too steep):

Ian and I threw ourselves pretty hard at Spinal Twist (12b), but unfortunately after four tries each, neither of us managed a send. It's a very physical climb, but also requires real precision and technique, and is truly a classic climb. It has a bit of everything - gastons, pockets, heel hooks, toe cams, deadpoints, a tiered roof, and even a spine-shaped TUFA...

Ian on a burly gaston:

Moving into the roof:

Pulling the roof involves some unique an exciting moves, and took a bit of sussing to get the beta figured out. From a horizontal break below the first big tier, you reach your left hand way out to a small two finger edge. Using this for balance, you do the 'twist' - bringing your right foot up and in, and throwing a wicked drop knee, you slowly twist up into a good incut right hand. Matching the incut and then clipping, you still have two more powerful moves with decent edges but poor feet. The first long move was more difficult for Ian, but the second proved to be the crux for me, as I couldn't utilize the good feet Ian used. Instead I figured out a dropknee that gave me balance, but zero ability to generate momentum with my legs. And on my third an fourth attempts, just didn't have the juice left to pull that hard with my arms. Spinal Twist is now on top of my project list, and I think it should go fairly quickly next trip. Thankfully, it's early in the season, and we have all winter to get out there.

A ringtail who came to say hi: