Inside the Confessional

The fact that climbing has become the most important thing in my life is a problem. School has been unintentionally neglected. On homework, I just can't focus. You might think this is due to climbing too often (which, on second thought, seems impossible), but I've usually only climbed two days a week this semester. Compared to last semester that figure is about half.

What is it then?

Well, I'll tell you. It's only the prospect of climbing that has taken over my life. I am so enamored by rock that I spend the rest of the week just researching and daydreaming of it. In fact I'd go as far as to say that not climbing as much as made my work output less. You see, weekend trips are usually planned, and therefore able to taunt me, throughout the week. Whenever a browser is opened on my computer, to do homework mind you, my motivation gets derailed by Mountain Project, and all that energy gets drained into scanning through the thousands of Arizona rock climbing pictures, or checking on the development at the new Panther Peak boulders. Then, all of a sudden, its time to make dinner. I am addicted. And this semester is wasted.

Well, it could be worse, Mom.
It could be heroin, right?


Anyway, here are some photos from the Homestead 80's weekend that went down last month. I believe the last head count was somewhere around 25, which has got to be a record for that place. Enjoy.

Dick and Harry 5.10c FA.
See that horizontal crack there, you go to it with your left, match it, then move up to a really good ledge. The Crux: Move over to the right on the edge, get a high left foot jammed somewhere, and fire up left handed to a little, high-friction pinch. The real hard part is getting your feet up because the pinch and the next hold are so close to the lip.

Larry is on the left, he bolted Dick and Harry the day before, and he is watching me climb it now.

Underclinging the crack.

The baby we found, abandoned, up at Welcome Wall.

It's spandex, not leather.

The route on the right is Milk Bone, a three-bolt, 40-foot 5.10a at Bone Town. Imagine three limestone blocks stacked on top of eachother, each the size of two rubix cubes, and you'll have an idea of what the hold is like. For the unimaginative, just know that it is glorious.

All photos by Paco Galvan.