Team Tuesday Climbing: Summer in the Arid Zone

The days are heating up, which means that dry, cold, Arizona friction is fading away. I can only hope that the monsoon season kicks in soon. Even though rain certainly wont help with friction, it'll make the summer more bearable and even enjoyable. Climbing in Arizona is possible no matter how hot the forecasted temps are for Phoenix or Tucson. Us Tucsonians have it best I believe, with the 30 minute drive required to reach nearly 9000 feet of elevation, 75 degree weather and the refuge of Mount Lemmon climbing. And during the winter months we can stay at the bottom of the mountain and chase the desert sun; the best of both worlds. Flagstaffers don't have it bad either, with sport crags and boulders of excellent quality sandstone and limestone, and basalt crack climbing as well, all within 30-minute's drive. This summer, between Kelly Canyon and Middle Earth alone, I shall have no shortage of projects.

For most of May and June Team Tuesday has been climbing at the Helmet. Practically grid-bolted with chain-draws, it's not the cleanest of the crags Lemmon has to offer, but the climbing is also of a pretty unusual style for the mountain; steep, horizontal actually, and juggy. A few weeks ago Joe sent No Climb For Old Men, a year-long project and, assuming the grade of 13a, his hardest send(?). Ian Evans is close to making a send also and linked every move to the crux, a large cross pictured below, before falling. (For more on No Climb see Joe's post: Ian on No Climb) Meanwhile, Clayton and I have been working on Demolition Derby, 12a. In sending this route I finally got over, at least partially, my irrational fear of lead falls, and have since been climbing with a lot more confidence. This was my first clean 5.12 lead. Clayton is also making quick progress this season and is poised for a red point attempt next Tuesday.

And finally, one more thing to mention. Southpark and Middle Earth are F*@king amazing! That I had gone over a year, almost two, of climbing on Mt. Lemmon and not spent one day at either of these two crags is absolutely ridiculous. To be honest I'm kind of ashamed. Unfortunately, for now I have only one picture of both of these crags. Many more to come, I assure you.

Photos by Dustin Payne (dp) and Joe Kriedel.

Pumphouse Wash, Oak Creek Canyon