Pete and I have been working on Coup de'tat, probably the hardest and longest established line on the wall. Coup share about 2/3 of its climbing with Orifice Politics 12c (my big project and eventual send last year) before branching right. Once Coup splits from Politics, you are faced with a technical and crimpy boulder problem that clocks in at probably v5/6 by itself. Keep in mind that this hard boulder problem is preceded by about 70 feet of steeply overhung climbing, and followed by about 40 more feet of slightly overhanging climbing. Coup de'tat was first climbed last summer and given a grade of 13a/b. This will definitely be my hardest redpoint, but it is going to take lots of effort to build the requisite endurance to finish this climb.
Dropknee on the lower crux:
Starting the upper crux:
Three days on the route this summer, and it seem to be coming together. Pete and I have both pulled the crux, and are linking the bottom section of the climb all the way up to the crux. We both need to iron out our beta a little bit, and build up enough endurance to finish the marathon route. It will take some serious effort, but I think both of us should get the redpoint this summer.
Pete in the headjam rest (which, like the kneebar below, I cannot use....):
Business time:
The best part of last Friday was finally getting to take Kerry up to the summit and the Orifice. After driving up from Tucson, exploring the summit area is like a whole other world. You enter deep into a landscape very different from the Sonoran Desert below - pine stands, lush fern meadows, expansive views in all directions. From our airy perch on the Orifice Wall, we can watch falcons and swallows nimbly swooshing and diving. In the valley below we see discriminating monsoon storms dump sheets of rain on select patches of city. It is a beautiful setting for the inspiring climbing of the Orifice.
Orifice Wall behind my rope bag:
Using the cable to get to the wall:
We got Kerry on the bottom part of Coup de'tat, which is tricky, overhung 5.11 climbing. She did well on the first long move right off the ground, but kept falling at the second long move a little higher. With a large swing after each fall, it was getting harder and harder to get back to the wall. I lowered her to the ground, ready to give her the next big challenge for the day: The King Swing.
Kerry breathing deep, counting down:
And she's off:
Kerry warming up at Murray Wall:
Starting up Coup de'tat:
Pete and I finished the day by climbing on a couple of the shorter 12a's at the wall.
The road home, with the next trip already on my mind.....
My palms are drenched from watching the king swing. Yet I still may chicken out when I get up there.
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