A Pre-Summer's Smorgishborg

This video encapsulates all the best climbing that I captured on tape over the last few months, a period during which there was no time allotted to leisurely editing because of a hellaciously demanding semester. I hope it makes you want to brave the heat and get frisky with some stone.

AZ Limestone

A quick purge of some photos taken a few weeks back at The Dry, a scruffy band of limestone southeast of town.

Team Brazil vs. Team Canada on Way To Dry, steep 5.11

Spinal Twist, mega-classic 5.12

Some lanky dude making Rocket Man look real ugly.

Deep Water Dreaming

A few hours into a 10 hour, cross-Atlantic flight to Croatia, my mild claustrophobia started kicking in. With a 25o plus pound man to my right, encroaching on my limited space, the man in front of me sleeping with is chair tilted all the way back in my lap, and both Kerry and the man to her left sleeping, I was trapped. My pulse quickened a bit, and I started taking shallow, desperate breaths. Anxious, and afraid I was going to freak out on the plane, I had to take control. I closed my eyes and took slow and deep breaths. Most importantly, I refocused, trying to ignore my pinned legs and inability to move, and imagining what was awaiting us at the end of the flight. I let my mind go, and it landed where it usually lands - at the base of a rock climb.

I pictured myself climbing out of the ocean, and starting up a gently overhanging wall of limestone. The idea of deep water soloing and everything it symbolizes for me - unencumbered movement, freedom, endless possibilities - seemed to be a perfect counterbalance for the my current situation, and my panicky state slowly subsided. Thoughts of perfect limestone, blue seas, and a new culture to absorb helped carry me through the rest of the flight (with a little help from some bad in-flight movies).

Deep water soloing has always been the form of climbing that has most captivated and amazed me. I grew upon the river of the Texas Hill Country, and spend a large chunk of my youth splashing, jumping and snorkeling in the Frio, Guadalupe and Medina Rivers. Being in the water is second nature to me, and I've always found being in a body of water liberating in much the same way I feel about climbing. So when - after having started climbing a couple years earlier - I first heard the term 'psicobloc', and saw video of Klem Loskot climbing 60 feet above the ocean in Mallorca, Spain, I was immediately floored. This was the purest, most exhilarating thing I could imagine. A whole new realm of possibilities opened, and I knew this was something I had to do.

And now, I was travelling across the globe to fulfill those fantasies. While the karstic coastline of Croatia offers almost limitless potential for DWS, there were two main spots I was hoping to check out. Sustipan - a smallish cliffband, but just a 10 minute walk from where we would be staying in the city of Split - and Cliffbase - a limestone paradise on the island of Hvar. Unfortunately we may have been a bit optimistic in our hopes for the weather, and planning this trip in November (the only time Kerry could get time off, though). The conditions weren't ideal this time of year, and we had a few days of rainy and windy weather severely limiting the amount of time we could climb, or even just swim in the stunning Adriatic Sea. Despite the chilly water, and cool temperatures, I was determined to get some climbing in. After our potential climbing days in Split were all rained out, my fingers were itchin' for some crimpin' by the time we took the ferry ride to Hvar Island.

Once on the island, we made a beeline for Cliffbase, which might be the most dream-like place I've ever visited. After a 15 minute hike in from the small village of Sveta Nedjelja, you arrive at a small house sitting below an endless band of limestone. This is the home of Miroslav, the owner of Cliffbase, and also a climbers hostel of sorts. Cliffbase is an ideal spot for adventurers of all kinds - there are over 100 sport routes here, fantastic snorkeling, slacklines can be rigged over the ocean, and maybe half a mile of DWS cliffs. It was time to have some fun.

We swam across the sheltered cove created by jumbled boulders rising from the ocean, and positioned ourselves on a nice large boulder near the base of some of the best looking limestone. Despite how the rock looks in pictures, it isn't sharp at all. It surprisingly had a slightly polished texture, but the abundant features, incuts and meaty slopers make up for the less than perfect friction (but with wet feet and hands, friction is never ideal while DWS). The climbing style was my absolute favorite, a style I tend to call 3-dimensional climbing: climbing big features, moving between different planes of undulating rock, using lots of push-pull opposition, heel hooks, knee bars and all varieties of interesting body positions and techniques.

Exhilarated to finally be here, living this dream, I started climbing. The thrill of new stone, intriguing movements, taking on the postcard-perfect scenery, gaining elevation above the calm, blue sea, reaching that one last jug and then....the splash. I climbed several outstanding lines, the easiest being about 5.10ish, the hardest being 11ish, but all would be good climbs regardless of their setting. I was psyched, and ready to climb until my fingers bled and my skin was pickled from the salt water, but I knew this day wouldn't last too long. Kerry was already sitting atop the boulder, shivering, and I could feel my body temperature quickly dropping. I tried to generate some body heat by doing long traverses at the base of the climb before climbing up, but that didn't seem to help. After squeezing in a about 12 climbs, I was violently trembling as if I had Parkinson's disease. We swam back to the land, dried off, bundled up and hiked out.

A few days later we took advantage of off-season rates and rented a tiny little boat and took it out for a cruise. We puttered along a few islands within sight of Hvar City, but then made our way to the coastline west of the city, where there were some obvious cliffs jutting out of the water.

The rock on these cliffs was a bit different, a few tufas and features, but in general a little sharper and crimpier. Unfortunately I hadn't brought my shoes, which would have helped a lot for these balancy face climbs. Still, I jumped off the boat and had some fun.

Our last day in Hvar I was determined to make it back to Cliffbase, but the weather didn't seem to want to cooperate. It was overcast and gusty, with an afternoon forecast for rain. As usual though, Kerry obliged my compulsions, and we drove to Sveta Nedjelja hoping for the best. Along the coast, we ate a picnic of fresh fruit, cheese and salami purchased from the farmers market, watching to see what the weather would do. It obviously wasn't going to get any better, but I was stubborn and desperate to squeeze in a few more climbs. We stepped out from our sheltered picnic spot and were greeted by powerful winds and ominous clouds rolling in from the south. A bad idea just got exponentially worse. I had to concede this one, and we packed up the car and drove off.

All told, I didn't to climb nearly as much as I had hope this trip, maybe 20-25 climbs in the two days I was able to climb. Each climb I did, though, was a true experience and something to keep me inspired for a long time. This trip will keep my imagination fired up, and keep alive that spark that drives us to chase after crazy ideas and seek out adventure. I've already got some ideas on how to make my next trip a little more successful, and even if I never do make it back here, I will never stop planning my return.

To see non-climbing pictures from Croatia, check out my pictures on facebook: Croatia pics.

A video of a few climbs from Cliffbase:

Summit Trip

Last week I remembered to bring my video camera up the mountain, and took some footage of the day. The photos I take and post of the summit never seem to do justice to the beauty of being up there, and I was hoping a movie would. There is a little bit of climbing action, but mostly the video is about the experience of a day on the summit of Mt. Lemmon. Enjoy, and if it isn't the default setting, make sure you check it out in a higher resolution.

Orifice Dispatch : Day 3

I'm trying to contain my enthusiasm for the start of Orifice season by not posting here after every trip out there, and not tweeting after every attempt on my project : "OMG!!! held the fred nicole crimp. 2 close 4 wurdz!" But last Friday was a great day out with Pete and Kerry, and we got some good pictures and video, so here's what's going on.

Pete and I have been working on Coup de'tat, probably the hardest and longest established line on the wall. Coup share about 2/3 of its climbing with Orifice Politics 12c (my big project and eventual send last year) before branching right. Once Coup splits from Politics, you are faced with a technical and crimpy boulder problem that clocks in at probably v5/6 by itself. Keep in mind that this hard boulder problem is preceded by about 70 feet of steeply overhung climbing, and followed by about 40 more feet of slightly overhanging climbing. Coup de'tat was first climbed last summer and given a grade of 13a/b. This will definitely be my hardest redpoint, but it is going to take lots of effort to build the requisite endurance to finish this climb.

Dropknee on the lower crux:

Starting the upper crux:

Three days on the route this summer, and it seem to be coming together. Pete and I have both pulled the crux, and are linking the bottom section of the climb all the way up to the crux. We both need to iron out our beta a little bit, and build up enough endurance to finish the marathon route. It will take some serious effort, but I think both of us should get the redpoint this summer.

Pete in the headjam rest (which, like the kneebar below, I cannot use....):

Business time:

The best part of last Friday was finally getting to take Kerry up to the summit and the Orifice. After driving up from Tucson, exploring the summit area is like a whole other world. You enter deep into a landscape very different from the Sonoran Desert below - pine stands, lush fern meadows, expansive views in all directions. From our airy perch on the Orifice Wall, we can watch falcons and swallows nimbly swooshing and diving. In the valley below we see discriminating monsoon storms dump sheets of rain on select patches of city. It is a beautiful setting for the inspiring climbing of the Orifice.

Orifice Wall behind my rope bag:

Using the cable to get to the wall:

We got Kerry on the bottom part of Coup de'tat, which is tricky, overhung 5.11 climbing. She did well on the first long move right off the ground, but kept falling at the second long move a little higher. With a large swing after each fall, it was getting harder and harder to get back to the wall. I lowered her to the ground, ready to give her the next big challenge for the day: The King Swing.

Kerry breathing deep, counting down:

And she's off:

Kerry warming up at Murray Wall:

Starting up Coup de'tat:

Pete and I finished the day by climbing on a couple of the shorter 12a's at the wall.

The road home, with the next trip already on my mind.....

Summer in the Arid Zone

The days are heating up, which means that dry, cold, Arizona friction is fading away. I can only hope that the monsoon season kicks in soon. Even though rain certainly wont help with friction, it'll make the summer more bearable and even enjoyable. Climbing in Arizona is possible no matter how hot the forecasted temps are for Phoenix or Tucson. Us Tucsonians have it best I believe, with the 30 minute drive required to reach nearly 9000 feet of elevation, 75 degree weather and the refuge of Mount Lemmon climbing. And during the winter months we can stay at the bottom of the mountain and chase the desert sun; the best of both worlds. Flagstaffers don't have it bad either, with sport crags and boulders of excellent quality sandstone and limestone, and basalt crack climbing as well, all within 30-minute's drive. This summer, between Kelly Canyon and Middle Earth alone, I shall have no shortage of projects.

For most of May and June Team Tuesday has been climbing at the Helmet. Practically grid-bolted with chain-draws, it's not the cleanest of the crags Lemmon has to offer, but the climbing is also of a pretty unusual style for the mountain; steep, horizontal actually, and juggy. A few weeks ago Joe sent No Climb For Old Men, a year-long project and, assuming the grade of 13a, his hardest send(?). Ian Evans is close to making a send also and linked every move to the crux, a large cross pictured below, before falling. (For more on No Climb see Joe's post: Ian on No Climb) Meanwhile, Clayton and I have been working on Demolition Derby, 12a. In sending this route I finally got over, at least partially, my irrational fear of lead falls, and have since been climbing with a lot more confidence. This was my first clean 5.12 lead. Clayton is also making quick progress this season and is poised for a red point attempt next Tuesday.

And finally, one more thing to mention. Southpark and Middle Earth are F*@king amazing! That I had gone over a year, almost two, of climbing on Mt. Lemmon and not spent one day at either of these two crags is absolutely ridiculous. To be honest I'm kind of ashamed. Unfortunately, for now I have only one picture of both of these crags. Many more to come, I assure you.

Photos by Dustin Payne (dp) and Joe Kriedel.

Pumphouse Wash, Oak Creek Canyon

Joe on No Climb For Old Men

Demolition Derby





Ian on No Climb For Old Men

SCS On-Sight Regionals at Rocks and Ropes

Southpark

Delirious 12a, at Middle Earth