Wednesday, September 2, 2009

The Summer of Unfulfilled Ambition

"Ambition aspires to descend. "
Pierre Corneille


This is my Summer of Unfulfilled Ambition. All of my goals have eluded me. My projects have uniformly thwarted my send attempts and my pal Joe salted the wounds by cutting together a video of every digitally recorded instance of me pulling on draws, hanging on the rope, or generally climbing in ways demeaning to both our sport and myself. Thanks for that Joe. You can see that video here: http://tucsonissogneiss.blogspot.com/2009/07/helmet.html

So, I was excited for September to roll around-- I'd heard from a reliable source that in New York City Fall starts on the 1st of September. When I checked with the U.S. Naval Observatory, however, I found out that Fall doesn't really start until September 22. I have suspected since early July (corresponding roughly with the time that Joe immortalized my ineptitude) that some unseen, desert-dwelling djinn have put a hex on me. It seems like a damn spiteful thing to do-- even for a malignant spirit --but I have learned, after a little research, that djinn draw most of their power from the sun (they're supposedly made of 'smokeless fire'). And that when the Earth begins to tip on its axis away from the sun their power will diminish rapidly.
This is a djinn.



The irony of expecting my climbing performance to improve during the Fall does not escape me.
My goal this summer was to redpoint 5.12. Redpointing 5.12 is pretty much my catch-all climbing goal, and as many times as I've set it as a goal within a particular period of time-- I have failed. This summer I have worked Demolition Derby (5.12a), Hard Day at the Orifice (5.12b-awesome), the Unnamed V5 Traverse (V5, at Gates Pass) and Drilled Pockets Right (V5, at the Silverbell Boulders). I've made some progress-- I am stronger and more focused than earlier this year. I have more endurance. I am right on the verge of sending each of these projects.
Cutting this video exorcised the worst of my summertime blues-- seeing myself on these amazing climbs gets me psyched. The Navy might think that the Summer of Unfulfilled Ambition will last another twenty-two days, but I think I feel the Earth beginning to tip. Out here in the desert the djinn are starting to get uneasy.

1 comment:

  1. C
    Hope you're right about the dginn. He looks pretty scary to me!
    Your auntie mm

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