Cochise Stronghold

How is this place only an hour and a half from my house, and how is this the first time I've climbed a route here? These are the questions that are lingering as I think about last Thursday's trip to Cochise Stronghold, a historic and amazing collection of granite domes up to 700 feet high. This remote and rugged area was once a favorite hang out for Cochise and his band of Chiricahua Apaches between their raids on local ranchers and couriers along the Butterfield Trail. Now it is a world class climbing area, an almost endless maze of high quality granite domes, crags and boulders. I was ready to get my Cochise initiation, and couldn't have asked for a better partner to introduce me to the Stronghold than Geir - an AMGA certified guide, who is also working on a series of online topos for the area.

Kids helping me rack for the day:

Cochise is well known for it's many bold and scary climbs, such as Abracadaver, but the place is far from a traditionalists stronghold - there are many multi-pitch routes that are entirely bolted, and even a few sport crags can be found, such as Isle of You and Sweet Rock. Bouldering? Oh man, there is serious potential on the west side just waiting for someone willing to put in the time and effort, plus loads of great established problems around the east side campground and Cochise Nature Trail.

Our objective for the day was the Sheepshead formation.

The approach to the Sheepshead started off easily enough, as a casual stroll through a grassy meadow. With views of the Huachuca Mts to the west and the various domes of the west Stronghold looming ahead, there was plenty to see. My inner boulderer was also salivating passing all the fantastic looking boulders along the way. Then with the Sheepshead right overhead, the approach kicked in, and we hiked another steep and exhausting mile to the base of our first climb.

A newish route we weren't sure of the name of, we started up the mixed 5.10+ with excitement and without sunscreen. We thought we were going to be climbing in the shade all day, but that theory didn't pan out, and we both got fried. The first pitch was fun, a short slab to a crack to a small roof. I led the second pitch, really fun 5.8 slabbing. It had been a while since I had climbed pure friction - feet smeared, hands palmed on smooth and featureless stone. It reminded me of the early days at Enchanted Rock, TX. Geir led the third pitch, starting with a small roof then into a hard slab, with a few real tricky moves. That left me with the 5.10 pitch 4, which consisted of an arching crack system then a bolted traverse under a large roof. It looked fantastic, except for that 20 foot section of offwidth - but it really didn't look that hard. I mean, sure it's an offwidth, but it's on an 80 degree slab, there must be an easy way up right? Did I just hear an evil laugh???

After about 30 minutes of profuse sweating, groveling, bleeding, whining and hanging on gear, I pulled up through the offwidth and made the sweet traverse. The last pitch was another tough one, and I was especially glad I wasn't leading. Even after a rest while belaying, I was still exhausted, and the opening roof moves on this one were tough for me. But after pulling through that you are rewarded with nice easy slab climbing up to the incredible summit and broad, panoramic views to the west and north. We dunked our heads in water-filled huecos on top, then made the descent back to our packs.

Photos from the summit (sorry, no action photos - the climbing was too sustained to ever worry about that...):

We had both been pretty badly baked by the sun, and as we sat in the shade guzzling water and eating sandwiches, we contemplating calling it a day. Fortunately some clouds were rolling in, and we decided to go for it. Unfortunately, once we hit the rock the clouds didn't last, and we again fried from the suns rays and the radiating heat from the pink granite.

Our next climb was The Climb Too Tough To Die, named for the historic city of Tombstone visible to the southwest, and it's nickname as "The Town Too Tough To Die". This climb is rated 5.10a, but is significantly easier than the previous climb - a welcome relief. A couple pitches have 10a cruxes, but most of the climbing is in the 5.7-5.9 range, with lots of bolts and easy to place gear when needed. This climb was fantastic, and if you can do the few 5.10 moves, probably a good introduction to climbing at Cochise.

The first pitch had a low slab crux, followed by a long and well protected crack up to a nice belay stance and terrific views.

Geir belaying at the top of the first pitch:

The second pitch was my lead, and it was a fantastic and beautiful lichen streaked slab up to a small headwall. The routes crux is on this pitch, a very delicate rightward traverse with nothing but the faintest ripples for your hands, and some small feet to move on. For most routes this would be the money pitch, but Too Tough To Die saves that one for the end.

Pitch 3 went through a cruxy headwall, up to some fun slab above. My lead on pitch 4 was ok, but not great. There were sections of crumbly kitty litter, and overall mostly a walk up. Pitch 5 was fun, with a low crux section on vertical rock leading up to easy but fun slab. Then it was my lead again, and I lucked out - the final pitch was incredible. You move through a blocky overhang up to a wildly exposed arete, making delicate slab moves along the arete for the last 40 feet to the summit. The exposure, the views, the movement and the impending storm made this a truly memorable pitch of climbing. And as I reached the anchors and could look over the summit to the east, I was rewarded with a perfect rainbow greeting me.

Me climbing the final arete:

If you are an experienced Cochise climber looking for a solid challenge, our first route is a good choice. It is sustained and difficult, with both slab and crack cruxes. Be ready to work hard, but the climbing is stellar. If you are looking for an easier climb or something you can finish relatively quick, Too Tough To Die is great fun. And if you are going to swap leads, try and cheat your partner out of some of the fun and take pitches 2-4-6. Pitches 2 and 6 more than make up for the lackluster 4th pitch.

I am glad I finally was introduced to Cochise climbing, and now my ticklist has grown exponentially. Aside from all the super classic established routes I want to do, we spied a few lines on the neighboring dome that we suspect are unclimbed, and look incredible (and hard!). And I will be daydreaming about the massive overhanging boulders for a while. There are multiple lifetimes worth of climbing in the Stronghold, and I look forward to many more days of fine friction on immaculate granite and enjoying the history and mystique of a truly special place.