Summit Crags - Getting High In Tucson

It's Labor Day weekend. School is back in session. The days aren't quite as long, and there is even talk of Halloween. These things all mean one thing - the coming end of summer. For many of us in Tucson the oppressive heat of the Sonoran Desert has overstayed its welcome. Some people like Clayton have been doomed by a summer of near-sends, and welcome the cooler weather, which seems to ever so slightly lessen the pull of gravity on grasping fingertips. For me, I can't say I'm not looking forward to fall, but I am certainly going to miss one thing about summer - the Summit Crags of Mt. Lemmon. Looming near the 9157 foot summit of Mt. Lemmon, and very visible from the east side of Tucson 7000 feet below, the Summit Crags area is the summer getaway for Tucson climbers.

I've ranted and raved about the Orifice Wall enough, both on this blog and in real life, so I'm going to gloss over that gem and share some of the other jewels found on top of our home crag. And while I have barely begun to scratch the surface of Summit Crag climbing, here are a few highlights and photos.

Rappel Rock

The west face of Rappel Rock:

I have not climbed here, but it looks and sounds incredible. Mostly long traditional lines (including some old school scarefests), Rap Rock is about 450 feet tall, with spectacular views and a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, chickenhead slinging, and even steep aid on the overhanging east side. About 50 climbs here in all.

The Ravens

A series of spires standing almost shoulder to shoulder, The Ravens host Tucson's longest sport pitches, up to 145 for a single pitch. Tall, vertical and full of crystalline knobs, The Ravens offer both sport and trad climbing, and a few routes have multiple pitches. If you are so inclined you can even climb the chimneys between each Raven - I have never been so inclined. There are about 50 climbs on The Ravens.

Murray Wall

Between the Ravens and the Fortress lies the Murray Wall, a nice little sport wall with a handful of harder routes on the west face, and a few easier ones on the east face. A popular place to warm up for the Orifice Wall, the main face of the Murray Wall has climbs ranging from 11a to 12b.

Clayton styling Murray Freestone (11b):

Matt flashing Forever in Bluejeans (12a):

Matt attempting Afterburner (12b):

The Fortress

The Fortress is the home of the Orifice Wall, but the rest of the formation is a destination unto itself. Here you can find the longest sport climbs in Tucson - 450 feet of glorious bolt clippin' - and a handful of long, classic trad routes. I've only done two of the long routes on the wall, the ultra-classic Steel Crazy, a 4 pitch 5.9 sport climb, and Inner Passage, a 3-pitch no-star trad line that I climbed in tennis shoes in the rain. Ugh. That climb did have one unique redeeming quality - a bizarre, cave-like tunnel that you climbed through about 150 feet up. There are about 40 climbs of great rock and eye-popping views on the Fortress, plus another 10 or so at the Orifice Wall.

John on Steel Crazy:

Looking down on pitch 2:

Looking down the tunnel on Inner Passage:

The exit of the tunnel:

South Park

For me this is the most visually striking wall on the mountain, and also home to the best rock on the mountain. Unfortunately it isn't as steep and exciting as the Orifice - this is the crag I had planned on climbing at all summer until I discovered the Orifice. A wall of blocky orange granite -vertical to slightly overhanging - the rock has a polished texture to it, and unlike most of Lemmon granite, doesn't shred your hands. The routes are long, sustained and gymnastic. A hard approach (even by Tucson standards), but you are rewarded with incredible climbing and great views of the valley to the north. You can even see Biosphere 2 from here.

The Steep

Accessed from the Marshall Gulch trailhead, The Steep is a plug of knobby granite with a bunch of tough sport climbs, 5.10- to 12+. The approach is one of the prettiest hikes I've done on the mountain, and the climbing is just as good. More info from a previous post here.

Reef of Rocks

One of the most committing and serious climbing areas on the mountain, Reef of Rocks is a traditional stronghold on a lycra-lovin' mountain. Climbs here can reach 300 feet tall, but require excellent gear placement and route finding skills. 2 of the 4 Mt. Lemmon climbing fatalities have occured at the Reef. I haven't climbed here yet, but have heard the routes are spectacular. 50+ routes can be found here.

The Summit Crags are some of the best rock in Tucson, and I'll go out on a limb and say it must be one of the best summer cragging areas in the country. Fall and winter will soon be here, bringing the perfect weather that draws so many snowbirds to Southern Arizona. But while they are loving the crisp and sunny winter days, I'll be daydreaming of unbearable heat, scorching sidewalks, and parched throats. Those will be the signs that it is time again - Summit Crag season.