THE STEEP

Tuesday had gotten off to a shaky start. Dustin and Clayton decided they weren't going to be able to climb today. They claimed they had "finals" and "job applications". I think they need a lesson in what it means to be a team.

With the temperatures supposed to be nearing 100 degrees in Tucson, Tyler, Austin and I decided to head to The Steep. A relatively new crag at about 8000 ft, this is one of the better summer sport climbing areas on the mountain. The Steep is a huge thumb of rock sitting just south of the Aspen Loop Trail, a beautiful and popular hiking trail in the summer months. You approach past a nice little stream and through a jungle of young aspen trees that have sprouted up since the devastating forest fire that hit the mountain in 2003. The climbing is all mostly slightly overhanging or very overhanging (as the name of the crag suggests) on positive quartzy holds that rip your fingers to shreds. Climb on.

Austin started us off by leading Bunkweed, a fun and varied 10a, and one of only a couple of 10's on the formation - and there are no climbs easier than 5.10, as we would later learn the hard way. Bunkweed starts on an overhanging layback system, then moves through an easy section of jugs, into a cool alcove where you can rest a bit. As you leave the alcove you pull over an overhanging bulge and enter a shallow water groove for about 20 feet, where delicate and balancey moves get you to the anchors. Austin took one good fall trying to get established in the water groove, but otherwise did a great job leading this climb. He just started climbing last fall, and has only started leading in the last month or so, but is learning real fast. And while his climbing is improving steadily, his communication skills need a LOT of work. His falls are usually preceded by him yelling something that sounds like the Tasmanian Devil yelling something in German. "WATCFAAAAATARRRRRRARRRARR". Fortunately the meaning is usually deciphered and he gets a good catch. 

Resting in the alcove:

Tyler followed up next, making easy work of it on toprope. Tyler is also improving quickly, and has made a handful of impressive leads in the last few weeks. I climbed last, and really enjoyed this climb. It is tough for the grade of 10a, but an absolute blast to climb. 

Next up was Two Birds Too Stoned, the other 5.10 at The Steep. This climb starts about 5 degrees less than vertical, for about 30 feet, followed by about 10 feet of vertical climbing before the wall tips back to about 10 degrees overhanging for about 15-20 feet. Following this serious pumpfest, you have the traditional Mt. Lemmon slab/mantel to the summit before clipping the chains. A fantastic route, and again, Austin led it out for us. He took a couple of good falls moving through the overhanging crux, but finally figured out his sequence and nailed it. Tyler crushed it on toprope, and I led it and cleaned it. 

Austin entering the overhang:

From out reading of the routes descriptions, it sounded like if we went downhill and just around the corner, the southeast face of the formation would have a number of routes ranging from 5.7-5.10, but didn't really give much more info. As I finished cleaning and rapping the last route, Tyler and Austin went around the corner to find another moderate climb to work on, while I was starting get my sights set on Cres-sent, a roofy 12c that I had tried and failed on last fall. Figuring the hardest route in the area was a 5.10, Austin picked a nice looking climb and started up. The start was a little tricky for him, but he got through it pretty quickly. About half way up was a cruxy overhanging sequence involving pulling on glossy quartz crystals while trying in vain to get your feet on something. Austin was struggling to get the quickdraw into the bolt, and took a bunch of good falls trying to get it in. After getting the bolt clipped, he fought hard to finish the sequence out, but it still took him a while and many "WAWATCFAAAAATARRRRRRARRRARR"'s. He'd been on the route probably half an hour at this point, and I started to become curious. I've seen him get up numerous 10's pretty quickly, and starting to doubt that this climb was in the 5.7-5.10 range. I ran up the hill to get his iPhone, which had the route info on it, and began to look a little closer. 

Austin going for it:

Notice the quickdraw in his hand:

As is so often the case at areas you aren't too familiar with, we underestimated the route a little bit. After getting oriented to the backside wall, we realized Austin was struggling up an 11c called Fat Bastard. Fighting hard, he took a few more good falls trying to pull through the final bulge, and finally topped out. About ten 8-12 foot whippers and an hour or so later, he clipped the chains with a loud victory scream. This was a mighty effort, and he took the evidence home with his legs scratched, bruised and bloody. He also fell right asleep in the car on the drive home.

The steepness

Tyler gave the route a go, made a good effort, but knowing we needed to start hiking out before too long, decided to come on down and try another day. A little unsure how hard this beast was going to be, I started up. After 15 feet of tricky slab, I entered an overhanging lieback arete. The holds were good, but keeping your feet on was the tricky part. This laybacking section brought me to the cruxy part where Austin struggled. I found some good hands, pasted my feet on some small edges, and got the bolt clipped. I started to pull past this section when my usual weakness struck again - getting horribly pumped and climbing timidly when I am tired. I yelled "Take" and rested a bit. I am a horrible onsighter. 

After resting I reached up and found a huge rest jug that I should have grabbed earlier. I climbed through the next fun section and up into the final bulge. After clipping the final bolt, you move up and then right into an enormous right hand dish/flake feature. From this hold you reach way up to the lip and find something to hold with your left hand that you can use to commit to pulling the lip. As I was searching for a good left hand, I broke the small right foot I was standing on. My right hand was so huge I didn't fall, but it sure sounded like a good excuse for a take, so I rested. Starting again, I found a bomber left hand at the lip, pulled through and manteled it out. This is a fantastic but burly climb, and I'll be back for the redpoint. 

P.S. - For some reason I had no pictures of Tyler on my camera. Sorry dude, we'll pose you up good next time.