The rock at the Munchkin Wall looks and feels different from any other crag on the mountain, and definitely climbs differently. The wall is dead vertical, and the black and gray rock looks like it was once an ashtray for a group of chain smoking dinosaurs (think The Far Side). The wall is featured with thin, discontinuous cracks and seams that are constantly testing your balance and route finding skills. Even though the crux of the climbs can usually be found in the first 20 feet, onsighting these routes is a tough challenge, as the good holds and sequences don't reveal themselves until it's too late. This is a place that may not make you a stronger climber, but it will certainly make you a better and smarter climber.
Tyler started us off leading a nice 5.6 that he had done a few weeks earlier. He is just starting to lead again after a long hiatus from climbing, and is getting better every week. After this I led and Tyler followed a real nice 5.9 called There's No Place Like Home. This one is unique in that it has a high crux, as you have to pull over a small roof with pretty good holds.
Feeling a little warmed up, and leery of the encroaching sun, I decided to try The Wicked Witch, a nice looking 5.12-. It was obvious from looking at it that the crux was low, but looked a little sustained through the fourth or fifth bolt. I felt like I had a pretty good chance of sending within a few tries (maybe even an onsight?), so was eager to give it a go. My optimism was quickly revealed to be hubris, as I was thoroughly spanked by this route. I must have tried 15 times, and never got to the second bolt cleanly. The crux move is off of a funky left hand pod/finger stack/gaston with a thumb catch on a quartz crystal, and bumping your right hand up some small features. There is a good incut a few inches above the funky left hand that you either have to bump your left into or cross right into. The feet are small and off-balance, with the first bolt just to the left of your left foot, making the multiple falls from here awkward. I never like these kind of falls - and they effect my climbing - because usually one of three things happen - 1) Rope catches you between the legs - OUCH 2) Kick your belayer in the head 3) Hit the ground. There were many falls resulting in #2, and just one ending in #3. I actually think a better strategy for this route is to bring a crash pad, skip the first bolt, and land on the pad if you fall. This is probably how I will go about this next time, helping me focus on the moves and not the fall, as I hopefully complete that move, and the climb, cleanly.
Next we moved down about 20 feet to another quality climb, this one a 5.10+ called Poppies Will Make Them Sleep. Long moves off the ground lead you to good holds and the first bolt. After this it is technical, thoughtful climbing up a series of thin seams and sidepulls. I wouldn't say this climb has a definite crux, but hanging on as you try to decipher a sequence can be very taxing. This another great route to try on the wall.
After finishing Poppies, we moved down to the next wall, the Wall of the Dancing Dwarves. Tyler had never done a multipitch climb, and I can always use the practice, so we decided to hop on Scarecrow, an enticing two pitch sport route at the end of the wall. The pitches were 5.8 and 5.10, so it sounded like a good way to end the day. I started up the first pitch, a nice slab with fun, slightly committing moves. I reached the belay station, set up an anchor, and as I'm trying to get cozy with the three-inch ledge I have to stand on, I look over and see a 5'x5' ledge four feet to my right. Unsure of why I am stuck on this tiny ledge, I set up a belay and Tyler begins to climb.
Tyler reaches the belay station, and us two big lanky dudes cuddle up on our tiny belay ledge, with a ledge big enough for us to be dancing on within spitting distance. After explaining to Tyler what I did, and what he needs to be doing next, I head up for the 5.10 second pitch, a beautiful vertical headwall. You start by climbing about 10 feet, mantel onto a big ledge, then another 10 feet, and another big ledge. Then you look up and see a gorgeous orange streaked wall. The climbing on this wall is juggy, gymnastic, and so much fun - the kind of pitch you wish kept going and going. Instead the pitch ends near the top of the wall, with a belay station about 150 feet above the ground. This is a great vantage for the valley and stream below, and Tucson far in the distance. Tyler made quick work following the pitch, and we descended back to the ground to finish another glorious day on Mt. Lemmon.
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